The Battlefields of WW1 - Flanders Fields and the Somme

DAY 1

Well I said goodbye to the White Cliffes of Dover in England and headed off on the Ferry to the shores of France. It was a lovely trip the whole 60mins of it - and I could still see England when I arrived.

Well I arrived in France I picked up the car to go pick up my two travel companions, Luke and Anthony. Unfortuantely, neither paid attention as to where their bus had taken them, only that it was called Brugge. Unable to find Brugge on my map and not even knowing it was in Belgium, I spent the best part of 4hours driving around trying to find it. So after this fantastic organisation by the boys I was very glad I had researched the sites I wanted to see in both Belgium and France and had basic maps to get to them.

So I finally found the boys in Belgium, in Brugge and spent the night there.

DAY 2

Well the next day we headed of to Ieper or Ypres (pronounced Yip or Yipper). Well we found it quite easily thanks to the driving of Luke and navigation of myself. Anthony crashed in the backseat and really didn't contribute (except to criticise or to give incorrect, unvalidated information) - which was the story of the trip.

So Firstly we stumbled across the Menin Gate. It was on my list and is a very significant memorial as it holds the names of over 5000 soldiers with no known grave. It had two lions on the top, one at each end. One of the Lions has been removed and presented to Australia as a gift of thanks from the Ieper people. It is now in the war museum in Canberra.

It is an amazing site and there are just sooooo many Australian names. If you double what is in this picture you'll have some idea of how many names.

I found some names of the 41st division which is the division my Great Grandfather fought in during this war. (lucky for me he survived and was sent home injured)

So after stumbling upon the Menin Gate we really didn't know where to head next so off we went to suss out a local map. Little did I know how much Anthony likes the trash and treasure market shopping. So this venture into town took a little longer, but eventually after sorting the map and finding the relevent sites we had a more definitle plan for the next couple of days.

So next stop we headed to the German Cemetary, Langemark. It is a mass grave of around 25000-30000 German soldiers which made into a rose garden. There are also other graves of known German Soldiers there. The cemetary is very different to the allies being all dark and black. Also notice the four shadowy figures, they are soooo erie.

So after the German Cemetary we headed off and found a few other memorials and cemetaries. They are just scattered everywhere. You would spend months if you went to every one. We then found (eventually) Tyne Cot Cemetary and Aust 3rd Division Memorial. This was in the heart of the 3rd battle of Iper - the battle of Passchendeale

The memorial is on the German bunker/blockhouse that the Australians captured.

VC winner C.S.Jefferies is also buried there.

After Tyne Cot (and my batteries dying) We headed back into Ieper to top up and then back to Polygon Wood for the Aust 5th Div Memorial and Buttes Cemetary.

So this was the end of our first day - And I was totally stuffed. But we still had some evening events to attend to like Australia V Brazil!!!!!!

And the Last Post at Menin Gate which is played every night 365 days of the year at 8pm. That is totally amazing. So we watched the match until 19:50pm then walked up to the Gate for the ceremony and you wouldn't believe a bit of a crowd had formed and we weren't at the front - how dare they. Anyway it was just amazing that they do this everyday.

After the ceremony we had a quick chat with the flag bearers and they totally love Australia (as everyone does) But they told us that flag bearers come from all over - they had just driven 300 miles for it! That's dedication!

So finally to bed (Well the boys got the double!)

DAY 3

Next day we first headed to Hill 60 and the 1st Aust Tunnelling Co Memorial. Apparently this Hill was very important as who ever occupied it had definite visual advantage.

We found a German blockhouse

and a massive crater, Caterpillar Crater (well so we thought till we saw others later in the week)

After this crater we then went in search of another Crater, Spanbroekmolen Krater or Lone Tree Crater. It was the largest of all craters from a single bomb blast. It has since filled with water and is known as the Pool of Peace. I found it very tranquil and could have sat there for ages.

So we then headed to Messines - a very important Ridge - Similar to Hill 60 in that who ever occupied this ridge had such a visual advantage.

Again there are blockhouses all around and of course the Cemetary which is primarily NZ but some Australians.

There is another smaller cemetary on the outskirts called Bethlehem Cemetary.

This is an Australian Cemetary and I found a grave of the 41st Battalion - one of my Great Grandfathers mates. This is very close to the area he was injured and where the 41st Battalion engaged in most of their battles. This man was killed only 3 days after my Great Grandfather was injured. There were 3 main Battles in this Belgium Area and this was the Battle of Messine Ridge in June/July 1917.

After Messines we head to Warneton - this is where my Great Grandfather was wounded (he lost his right leg and had it amputated). Warneton doesn't have very much in way of memorials etc and the town lies on the border of Belgium and France and therefore is split into two.

There is a lovely church and a park with relics of WW1 & WW2.

The bridge seperates Belgium and France.

On the French side there is the only remaining evidence of WW1 - a German Blockhouse.

After I have my personal moments and reflection we head do into France. Next stop Fleurbaix and Fromelles. This was where the Australians first joined the front line - and were consequently slaughtered.

VC Corner is a unique place as there are no graves.

Just next to VC Corner is the "Cobber's" Memorial.

Here we found some left over shells!!!

There isn't anything but farm land in this area. It is very small and isolated. Nothing is open and it is almost like a ghost town.

Along the way to our next stop we decided to check out Vimy Ridge which was a significant Canadian victory. It was quite disappointing as other places we had been to were quite natural and looked after, but Vimy Ridge just seemed too plastic. And it was all fenced off. We didn't appreciate it at all. We understand that they were looking at preservation but it is difficult to image what it was like in the day when you feel like you are in a theme park. The funy thing is that in the fenced off areas they have danger signs and then you go passed a dude whipper snipping in there - yeah real dangerous!!!!!!!

We then head off looking for another small town called Bullecourt - Again another significant town in Australia's battles and one that the town totally appreciates.

Here we visit the Digger Corlett Memorial

And the Slouch Hat outside the Bullecourt Church.

There is mention of a Museum somewhere so we finally find it and check it out. It is basically this old French guy that has converted one of his barns into a museum of newspapers, photo's relics, etc. It seems that all the local farmers just bring to him anything they find. He is also very knowledgable on the Australian Offensive and likes to chat to us about what he knows. It is a real priviledge to have met someone like him. John Howard sent him a personl condolence letter a few years ago when his wife passed. He told us too that only about 20 years ago they found the body of Australian Soldier on one of the nearby farms and they had to remove his name from the missing and no known grave list - how amazing is that. He has family members send him photo's of lost loved ones and updates on how the families have gotten on. It was a real treasure to find this little museum.

So after spending quite some time at this little museum. We headed off to the Somme to find our next bed to sleep in. It had been another big day.

DAY 4

Perone is a lovely little town. One with Australia written all over it - Literally! When the Australians liberated Perone in 1918, they renamed the main street Roo de Kanga. It is still called that today.

They have Australian flags everywhere.

So in Perone was the Museum. It not only shows the war from the Allies perspective but also from the Germans and gives the post war accounts as well. It is very imformative and we spent over 2 hours checking it out. And that is a long time in a museum for me!!!!

Before Leaving Perone I had to see the Le Somme river.

Right near Perone is a little suburb called Mont St Quentin . Monash's men were exhausted and understrength, however, Monash considered them invisible. And they were. The British thought that Mont St Quentin was inpregnable - But the Aussies did it - in style!!!!!

So we checked out Perone and now it was off to follow Le Somme back to Amiens. We check out the windmill sight which was the center of many battles and the windmill got totally creamed. Only a plaque lies there now with our flag.

We then head into Pozieres and found more Aussie icons everywhere - like this tower for example. Pozieres is really just one street but it was full of battle lines in the Great War. So there is are many plaques and memorials in this area.

Marquet Farm was another significant battle for Australia. Again this farm lies on a slight rise and was heavely defended by the Germans. Our boys did us proud again and drove the Germans back. This battle occurred only days after the windmill battle where Australia had very heavy losses. So even when we were down we found the strength when needed. This farm was rebuilt after the war and is approximately 200 metres closer than the original.

When we were at the Windmill site we could see this monument in the distance. We didn't know what is was or what it was for but it was massive. So it wasn't far past Marquet farm and kind of on the way to other sites we wanted to see. So we checked it out and it is MASSIVE. It isn't dedicated to Australians as we have many of our own monuments, but it is dedicated to those with no known grave of many other allied nations. It is in the town of Theipval wwhich I have since learnt was the object of the very first Somme offensive on 1/7/1916. Australia wasn't onvolved but the british lost almost 20000 men on the first day 10000 of them in the first hour. The monument holds the manes of 70000 soldiers with no known grave. Theipval is on a hill and was heavely defended by German Machine Guns - Damn those Guns!!!

At the entrance there is an information centre which is very informative in outling the progression of the war. There is one paragraph towards the end that highlights the efforts of the Australians and the significant part we played in ending the war - (Yes of course we won the war for France and Britain!!!!!!)

We then continued on our way and checked out the Newfoundland Memorial. It is funny how during the war Newfoundland were not a part of Canada, they were a British Colony. But now Canada have taken over their memorial and claimed it as their own. I really didn't like the way the Canadians presented their sites. Anyway here are some piccys of the Newfoundland moose. And he faces the way the battle was. Oh and the Newfoundlanders got absolutely slaughtered. They stated their initial battle with almost 1000 men and had around 65 left.

After Newfoundland we looked at the Ulster Tower. it wasn't their in the war but has been built to recognise the efforts of the Ulster boys on that first fateful day in 1916. They had gainned the most adavantage but due to not receiving reinforcements they had to withdraw - If only!!!!

So our next stop for the day was a very important place. It is know as "Gibraltar". It was an undergound German Blockhouse. It was a very strong fortress and the British thought that no one would be able to penetrate it. That was until the Aussie's got there. The Memorial is to the 1st Aust Division.

Our last stop for the day was Locknager Crater. It is absolutley massive. I think it is actually a little smaller than the Pool of Peace but because the Pool of Peace is filled with water it is hard to imagine. Well this one isn't filled with water.

And yes I am the little dot at the bottom of this next piccy, showing just how big this crater is.

Well that was our last stop for today and now we have to go in search of a bed. So we decide to go to the next biggest town which is Albert. On the map it looks bigger than Perone - where we stayed last night. But you wouldn't believe it but there are only 4 hotels in the whole town. And what is worse is that there is only one cheap one. Which really doesn't matter because they are all fully booked anyway. We find a camping ground but we don't have a tent and I don't have a sleeping bag. We are told that it is because it is the 90th anniversary of the Battle of the Somme. So we head all the way to Amiens which is a major city and not far past our next destination. But we get there and still no vacancies - Not only is it the 90th anniversary but is it is the 800? year anniversary of David the Baptists head being presented to the Cathedral. And they have a head on display. I don't know any bible stories but apparently this was a good one. A french lady did try to explain but my french really isn't what it shoulg be. But here is a piccy of the Cathedral

And the Head!!!! (it' a bit blurry)

So we finally found a bed at AU$170 for the room. The most expensive room for the trip . At least we got breaky and I made the most and added my lunch.

DAY 5

Well today we went to Memorial Park. This site is Le Hamel. And a very significant Battle for Australia. The British promoted General Monash to lead all 5 Australian Divisions. For the first time all the divisions were led by one man - An Australian. Monash was renowned for his meticulous planning and insistance on training and preparing the men thoroughly. And this battle was no different. He enlisted the support from the newly arrived and fresh Americans with their planes and tanks. Monash planned victory for this attack to take 90min. It took 93mins!!!!!!! And Monash was knighted on the battlefield by the King - the only man to have that honour!

We had a couple of attempts at finding the Red Baron crash site and after being to Le Hamel we had a better idea and went back to finally find it. The Red Baron was the famous German fighter pilot who flew in a little red plane. He had many victorious dog fights under his belt 80 in fact and was considered by the Germans as invincable. Well no one is as he found out. There is a little controversy over who actually shot him down. So I will give you a little info and you can decide. The Red Baron was chasing a Canadian and another Canadian was chasing him. The 3 planes went into a dive, however the Canadian chasing pulled out of the dive after firing final shots. The Red Baron continued in his chase over the Australian 24th Machine Gun Co, who of course fired. At this point the Red Baron hurtle towards the ground and crashed. The Canadians and Australians take ownership of this victory but no one will ever know for sure. I think it was probably a combination of all the hits. And the final hit from the Australians eventually brought him down - but would that shot in it's own have caused the Baron to crash???? Anyway the Aussies gave him a very fitting funeral at the crash site. He has now been reburied in his German homeland. So here is a piccy of the actual crash site as it looks today.

Well we left the most cherished Australian Victory til last. Villers-Bretonneux. This town vows never to Forget Australia and that is noted everywhere - particularly in the Victoria School. The significance also lies in that the Australians liberated this town on April 25 1918. When buring the dead and marking the date the ANZACS realised it was 3 years since the landing at Gallipoli and when this awful nightmare had begun for the ANZACS.

Villers-Bretonneux is a small town just outside of Amiens. It was very imortant that this town did not stay in German hands due to it's close proximity to Amiens.

So first we visited the Villers-Bretonneux Cemetary. This cemetary only just survived WW2 with massive bullet holes all over the memorial.

We also visited Adelaide Cemetary which is where the grave of the unknown soldier was exhumed and buried in Canberra.

So then finally we visited Victoria school which has made it's own museum in remembering the efforts of the Australians in saving their town. Apparently above every blackboard are the words "Never Forget Australia"

I took some photos of photos from the museum to try and capture images of the time.

Of course the Australians kept their spirits up by marking a their place and playing tricks. Here you can see Circular Quay being named and the big tank the men are carrying was to trick the Germans into thinking they had more tanks than they really did!!!!

Victoria School a determined to ensure that their students do not forget what Australia did for them.

So this ended the tour of the WWI sites in Belgium and France. Here is a really informative website if you want to read more.

http://www.ciaops.com/guides/battle